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Hanging Ten: The Science of Surfing
Image: iStockphoto.com/pixel-pro

Hanging Ten: The Science of Surfing

Riding a wave relies heavily on science. Physics, in the form of gravity and buoyancy, keep surfers on their boards. Then there's hydrodynamic forces, acceleration, and velocity. It also helps to have an understanding of meteorology and what's going on on the ocean floor. There's even a scientific reason why surfboards are shaped the way they are and why they're made of certain materials. Dive in!

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Building a Simple (and Inexpensive) Wave Model

Building a Simple (and Inexpensive) Wave Model

Can't get to the killer waves? Well, make your own and experiment with different kinds of wave actions and breaking waves. More...

Activity
Bruce Gabrielson
Award-Winning Surfboard Design

Award-Winning Surfboard Design

It's thought that surfboards have been around since 300 BC, but a lot of changes have been made since then. See some of the high-tech designs and materials used in modern surfboard design. More...

Article
Powerhouse Museum
Catchin’ Waves

Catchin’ Waves

Watch as Carsten turns his love of surfing into a cool science project, figuring out what makes the best waves. Could you do a similar project? More...

Video
DragonflyTV/PBS
Science of Surfing

Science of Surfing

Ben Biffard isn't your average scientist, or your average surfer. He uses depth sounders to map the sea floor, which also helps him predict the surf! Take a look at his career path and work. More...

Profile
Vancouver Aquarium
Surfing

Surfing

At its root, surfing is a simple concept, all you need is a breaking wave and a board. Yet, surfers will go to great lengths to surf the biggest and best waves. More...

Images
National Geographic
The Science of Surfing

The Science of Surfing

Advances in meteorology improve the chances of catching that monster wave. See how forecasters use space technology to predict where the waves of distant storms will break. More...

Article
NASA
Waste to Waves

Waste to Waves

You know that foam material that's used for packaging things like TVs and laptops? Find out how it's being recycled into new, eco-friendly surfboards. More...

Video
Sustainable Surf
Waves and Weather

Waves and Weather

Wind, waves, and weather — combine them in just the right way to make the perfect surfing experience. More...

Article
Greg Kroleski

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